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Oct 28, 2026
Why Do Dogs Roll in Dead Animals and Smelly Things?

Your dog has just found something extraordinary — a dead bird, a pile of fox droppings, the remains of something unidentifiable — and before you can intervene, they are rolling in it with visible delight. Few dog behaviours provoke more immediate horror in owners, yet this one is entirely normal and deeply rooted in canine evolution. According to the American Kennel Club, wolves — the direct ancestors of domestic dogs — engage in exactly the same behaviour, which strongly suggests the drive is ancient, instinctive and not going away any time soon.

The Main Scientific Theories

Veterinary behaviorists have proposed several overlapping explanations — and the honest answer is that no single theory has been definitively proven. However, the most compelling ones all share a common thread: scent.

Theory 1: Scent camouflage from hunting instinct

The most widely cited explanation is that rolling in strong smells is a hunting strategy inherited from wild ancestors. In the wild, a predator that smells like a dead animal or the prey’s own environment has a significant advantage: it can approach far more closely before being detected. By masking their own scent with something environmental, canids reduce the olfactory signal they broadcast. This theory is supported by the fact that wolves are selective about which smells they roll in — they tend to choose scents that are relevant to their environment rather than any random odour — which suggests purposeful behaviour rather than random impulse.

Theory 2: Communication and information sharing

Another compelling theory, particularly relevant to wolves, is that rolling in a strong smell serves as a form of communication with the pack. When a wolf returns to the group carrying the scent of a dead animal or a new food source, other pack members investigate the smell intently — and can potentially locate the source from the information carried on the roller’s coat. In other words, rolling may function as a primitive form of reporting: “I found something significant here.” While domestic dogs no longer live in hunting packs, the instinct to carry and communicate olfactory information may persist regardless.

Theory 3: Olfactory enrichment — they simply enjoy it

A third and perhaps underappreciated explanation is the simplest: dogs roll in strong smells because they find it deeply pleasurable. For an animal with 300 million olfactory receptors — compared to our 6 million — a richly scented dead animal or a patch of fox urine is an extraordinarily intense sensory experience. Rolling in it prolongs and intensifies that experience in the same way a human might linger in a favourite environment. Furthermore, many dogs show clear signs of excitement and enjoyment during the behaviour — tail wagging, loose body posture, almost theatrical enthusiasm — which strongly supports the idea that, whatever the evolutionary origin, the immediate motivation is pleasure.

Theory 4: Scent marking in reverse

Most dogs mark their territory by leaving their own scent on objects. Some researchers propose that rolling in a strong smell may be the reverse process — covering themselves with an environmental scent to claim it or carry it, rather than leaving their own scent behind. This remains the least supported of the main theories, however, as it does not explain why dogs show no apparent interest in returning to the same spot to re-scent it the way they do with urine marking.

The Wolf Connection: What Wild Behaviour Tells Us

Because wolves share a common ancestor with domestic dogs, studying wolf behaviour is one of the most useful tools scientists have for understanding why dogs do what they do.

Field observations of wolves confirm that they roll in strong smells regularly — not just any smell, but specifically unusual, potent or biologically relevant ones like dead animals, the urine of other species and human-related scents such as perfume or engine oil. Significantly, wolves appear selective rather than indiscriminate, which argues against the behaviour being purely compulsive. Moreover, the pack communication theory gains support from observations of wolves returning to the group and being immediately investigated by other members after rolling. In contrast, the scent camouflage theory is harder to confirm in wolves, since they are successful pack hunters whose primary strategy is endurance pursuit rather than stealth ambush — which makes scent masking less critical than it would be for solitary hunters.

Why Only Some Dogs Do It

Not every dog rolls in smelly things — and the variation between individuals is one of the most puzzling aspects of the behaviour.

Factor How it influences the behaviour
Breed and ancestry Scent hounds (Beagles, Basset Hounds, Bloodhounds) and hunting breeds show higher rates — their entire purpose was olfactory work
Individual personality More exploratory, bold dogs tend to engage more; anxious or cautious dogs may avoid strong unfamiliar smells
Previous reinforcement Dogs that received attention (even negative attention) after rolling may repeat the behaviour as a social strategy
Age Puppies exploring the world often roll in things as part of general sensory investigation; some grow out of it, others do not
Opportunity Dogs with more off-lead time in natural environments simply encounter more opportunities — frequency of the behaviour reflects access as much as drive

Breed and ancestry

Influence: Scent hounds show highest rates — built for olfactory work

Individual personality

Influence: Bold, exploratory dogs engage more than anxious ones

Previous reinforcement

Influence: Attention after rolling — even negative — can reinforce it

How to Reduce the Behaviour

You cannot eliminate the instinct — but you can reliably interrupt it before it completes, given sufficient training and supervision.

  • Train a reliable “leave it” cue: this is the single most effective preventive tool; a dog that responds immediately to “leave it” can be redirected before making contact with the offending object; however, this only works if the training is solid enough to override the excitement of the find
  • Train a reliable recall: calling your dog away from a distance before they reach the smell is more effective than trying to interrupt once they have already started rolling; a recall that works under high distraction requires consistent proofing in different environments
  • Use a long lead in high-risk areas: if your dog has a strong rolling drive, a 5–10 metre training lead in areas where dead animals or fox droppings are common gives you physical control without eliminating the walk
  • Avoid harsh punishment: shouting or physically correcting a dog mid-roll is unlikely to stop the behaviour and may damage trust; moreover, some dogs interpret any reaction as attention and therefore roll more, not less
  • Increase general enrichment: dogs that roll in smelly things partly for the sensory stimulation it provides may roll less if they have other rich olfactory outlets — sniff walks, nose work games and scatter feeding all engage the same drive in a less problematic way

Further reading on dog behaviour and instincts:

FAQ

Is rolling in dead animals dangerous for my dog?

It can be. Dead animals may carry bacteria, parasites and toxins — including the remains of animals that were poisoned with rodenticide. In addition, a dog that rolls in a carcass and then licks itself may ingest pathogens directly. Checking your dog after a roll for any wounds, ticks or unusual skin reactions, and bathing them promptly, reduces these risks significantly. If your dog rolled in something of unknown origin and subsequently seems unwell, contact your vet.

Why does my dog roll in grass specifically?

Grass rolling is usually a milder version of the same instinct — grass is full of environmental scents from insects, other animals, soil and plant compounds. Furthermore, rolling in grass may simply relieve an itch or feel physically pleasant, particularly on warm days. Occasional grass rolling without subsequent odour is generally entirely harmless and not worth discouraging.

Do female dogs roll in smelly things as often as males?

Both sexes engage in the behaviour, and there is no strong evidence that one sex is significantly more prone than the other. Individual personality, breed background and opportunity appear to be more predictive than sex. Unneutered males may show slightly higher rates of scent-related behaviour generally, but rolling in dead animals is observed across all sexes and reproductive statuses.

My dog only rolls in specific things — why?

This selectivity is actually one of the most interesting aspects of the behaviour, and it supports the hunting communication theory over pure compulsion. Dogs and wolves appear to find certain scent profiles particularly compelling — typically those that are biologically novel, very intense or associated with other animals. A dog that rolls specifically in fox droppings but ignores bird droppings, for example, may be responding to specific chemical compounds in the fox scent that trigger the instinct more strongly.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell after contact with a dead animal, contact your vet promptly.

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Oct 27, 2026
Why Do Dogs Howl?

Howling is one of the most ancient forms of canine communication — and one of the most misunderstood. According to the American Kennel Club, dogs inherited howling directly from their wolf ancestors, where it served as a long-distance communication tool capable of carrying information across several miles. Domestic dogs retain this behaviour fully — but the triggers have expanded well beyond pack coordination to include sirens, music, emotion, pain and attention-seeking. Understanding which one is driving your dog’s howl makes all the difference in how to respond.

The Main Reasons Dogs Howl

Howling is always communication — but what a dog is communicating depends entirely on context.

Long-distance communication and location broadcasting

In wolf packs, howling coordinates group movement, announces location and keeps separated members connected across large distances. A howl can carry further than a bark — its sustained, rising and falling pitch is specifically adapted for long-range transmission. Domestic dogs retain this function. A dog left in the garden that hears other dogs nearby may howl to announce its presence and location. A dog separated from its owner may howl as a beacon — the same instinct that drives wolves to howl when separated from their pack. This type of howling is calm, directed outward and typically stops when the trigger is removed or the dog rejoins its group.

Contagious howling — social bonding

Howling is contagious among dogs — one dog’s howl reliably triggers others nearby, including in completely unrelated households. This contagion is thought to serve a social bonding function in wolf packs, reinforcing group cohesion and identity. In domestic dogs, it often manifests as a dog joining in when it hears another dog howl on television, a recording or from outside. Dogs that howl together in this way are engaging in a form of social participation rather than distress. Many owners report that their dog seems to enjoy this contagious howling — and the research on wolf pack behaviour supports the idea that group howling has a positive, bonding function.

Separation anxiety and loneliness

Dogs with separation anxiety frequently howl when their owners leave — neighbours are often the first to report it. This howling is typically sustained, distressed and accompanied by other anxiety behaviours (pacing, destructive behaviour, house-soiling). It differs from communication howling in its emotional quality — the dog is not broadcasting its location calmly, it is expressing genuine distress. Howling from loneliness, in dogs left alone for very long periods without adequate stimulation, follows a similar pattern but is usually less severe and may reduce with environmental enrichment.

Attention-seeking

Dogs quickly learn that howling produces a human reaction — concern, attention, a response of any kind. A dog that has discovered howling reliably brings you back into the room will use it as a communication tool. This type of howling is often brief, stops as soon as attention is given and resumes when attention is withdrawn. The key to distinguishing attention-seeking from distress howling is whether the dog appears relaxed when you are present — a dog howling for attention in your absence but content when you are home is probably not experiencing clinical separation anxiety, just learned behaviour.

Pain or illness

A dog that howls when touched in a specific area, when moving, when getting up or in the middle of previously silent nights may be vocalising pain. This type of howl tends to be different in quality — often sharper, shorter and clearly linked to a specific stimulus. Any new or sudden onset of howling, particularly in an older dog or one that was previously quiet, warrants a vet visit to rule out pain, internal disease or canine cognitive dysfunction (a form of age-related dementia that frequently causes disorientation and night-time vocalisation).

Why Dogs Howl at Sirens and Music

This is one of the most commonly asked questions about dog howling — and the answer is more interesting than most people expect.

The frequency range of a siren — sustained, high-pitched, rising and falling — closely mimics the acoustic structure of a howl. When a dog hears a siren, it appears to process it as another dog (or wolf) howling and responds instinctively in kind. The dog is not distressed by sirens — it is joining in with what it perceives as a group howl. The same principle applies to certain musical instruments (particularly wind instruments and violins in the upper register) and to some human singing in higher registers. A dog that howls at music and then wags its tail and appears relaxed is almost certainly enjoying itself, not suffering.

Which Breeds Howl Most

All dogs can howl — but some breeds are significantly more vocal than others, for reasons rooted in their working history.

Breed group Howling tendency Historical reason
Scenthounds (Beagle, Basset, Bloodhound) Very high Bred to bay (sustained howl-bark) to alert hunters to prey location
Nordic / Spitz breeds (Husky, Malamute, Samoyed) Very high Genetically closest to wolves; retain strong howling instinct
Sighthounds (Greyhound, Irish Wolfhound) Moderate Occasional howling, not bred for vocalisation
Herding breeds (Border Collie, Shepherd) Low to moderate Bark more than howl; howling uncommon unless anxious
Toy breeds (Chihuahua, Pomeranian) Variable Can be vocal but typically bark rather than howl

Scenthounds (Beagle, Basset)

Tendency: Very high

Reason: Bred to bay to alert hunters

Nordic breeds (Husky, Malamute)

Tendency: Very high

Reason: Genetically closest to wolves

Herding breeds (Collie, Shepherd)

Tendency: Low to moderate

Reason: Bark more; howling usually anxiety-linked

When Howling Is a Warning Sign

Most howling is normal behaviour. These specific patterns are worth taking seriously.

  • Sudden onset in a previously quiet dog: a dog that has never been a howler and starts howling regularly, particularly at night, should be seen by a vet — pain, internal disease and canine cognitive dysfunction are common causes
  • Night-time howling in older dogs: one of the most common signs of canine cognitive dysfunction is disorientation and vocalisation at night; older dogs that seem confused, pace at night or howl without apparent reason should be assessed for age-related cognitive changes
  • Howling when touched or moving: a sharp howl when you touch a specific area or when the dog rises from rest is a clear pain signal — locate the sensitive area and call your vet
  • Sustained howling during your absence: if neighbours report sustained howling every time you leave, your dog may have clinical separation anxiety — this is a welfare issue that benefits from veterinary and behaviourist support, not just management
  • Howling accompanied by other behavioural changes: reduced appetite, lethargy, confusion or changes in movement alongside new howling always warrant a vet visit

Further reading on dog communication and behaviour:

FAQ

Do dogs howl at the moon?

No — dogs do not howl specifically at the moon. The association comes from wolves howling at night, when the moon is visible, but the moon itself is not the trigger. Dogs and wolves howl at night because many of their activities (hunting, territory marking) peak in the crepuscular and nocturnal hours — the moon is coincidental.

Should I howl back at my dog?

If your dog howls at sirens or music for fun and then wags its tail, howling back is harmless and probably enjoyable for them. If your dog howls from anxiety or separation distress, joining in can inadvertently reinforce the behaviour — in those cases, the better response is calm, matter-of-fact re-entry rather than emotional engagement with the howling.

My dog howls in its sleep. Is that normal?

Usually yes — dogs in REM sleep replay their waking experiences, and a dog that howls occasionally in its sleep is most likely dreaming about something that involves howling. Occasional sleep vocalisation is normal. Frequent, intense or escalating sleep vocalisations, particularly in older dogs, are worth mentioning to a vet.

Can I train my dog to stop howling?

For attention-seeking howling, yes — consistently withdrawing all attention when it starts and rewarding silence reduces the behaviour over time. For anxiety-driven howling, the underlying anxiety needs to be addressed rather than just the howling suppressed. Punishment is not recommended in either case — it increases anxiety and typically worsens the behaviour.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

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Oct 26, 2026
How to Tell If Your Rabbit Is Happy

Rabbits are prey animals — which means they instinctively hide signs of weakness, pain and distress. According to the RSPCA, understanding rabbit body language is one of the most important skills a rabbit owner can develop, precisely because rabbits communicate differently from cats and dogs — and a rabbit that seems “fine” can sometimes be quietly suffering. The good news is that happy rabbits are expressive in their own way, and once you know what to look for, the signals are unmistakable.

Signs Your Rabbit Is Happy

Happy rabbits are active, curious and relaxed. These are the behaviours to look for.

The binky — the clearest happiness signal of all

A binky is when a rabbit jumps into the air with all four paws off the ground, twists its body mid-air and lands facing a different direction — sometimes spinning, sometimes kicking out its back legs. It looks almost like a sudden glitch in movement. This behaviour has no practical purpose other than joy — it is the rabbit equivalent of a happy leap, and a binkying rabbit is unambiguously content. Some rabbits binky frequently during free-roaming time; others are more reserved and may only binky occasionally. A rabbit that has never binkied is not necessarily unhappy — some individuals are simply more stoic — but regular binkies are one of the strongest signals that a rabbit is thriving.

The flop

A rabbit that dramatically tips over onto its side — sometimes so suddenly it looks alarming — is expressing deep contentment. This is called a flop, and it is a rabbit’s way of showing it feels completely safe and at ease. A flopped rabbit will lie stretched out, often with eyes half closed, breathing slowly. New rabbit owners sometimes panic the first time they see it, mistaking the sudden collapse for illness. A relaxed, flopped rabbit that is breathing normally and twitching occasionally is simply a very happy rabbit. A rabbit that never flops in your presence may not yet fully trust its environment.

Relaxed body posture

A happy, relaxed rabbit holds its body loosely — no tension in the muscles, legs tucked comfortably beneath the body or stretched out behind. Ears will be close together, pointing upward and slightly outward. Eyes may be partially closed. A rabbit in a loaf position (sitting with all four feet tucked neatly underneath, like a loaf of bread) is comfortable and calm. The key distinction from a worried rabbit is muscle tension — a relaxed rabbit looks settled, while a stressed rabbit looks ready to run.

Tooth purring

Rabbits cannot purr the way cats do, but they produce a similar signal: a soft, rapid tooth chattering or light grinding sound made when they are petted or content. This is sometimes called tooth purring and is distinct from the louder, grinding tooth noise (bruxism) that indicates pain or distress. Tooth purring is quiet, rhythmic and accompanied by a relaxed posture — if you feel the vibration through your rabbit’s jaw while stroking them, they are enjoying it.

Other happy signals

  • Zoomies: running fast in circles or figure-eights around the room — pure excitement and energy
  • Licking or nudging you: a rabbit that licks your hand or nudges you with its nose is showing affection and trust
  • Grooming you: a rabbit that grooms your hand, arm or hair has accepted you as part of its social group — a significant sign of bonding
  • Playing with toys: tossing, flipping or dragging objects around is active, playful behaviour in a content rabbit
  • Eating and drinking normally: a healthy appetite is one of the most reliable indicators of a rabbit that feels well and safe
  • Exploring confidently: a happy rabbit investigates its environment with curiosity rather than anxiety — ears forward, moving freely

Signs Your Rabbit Is Unhappy or Stressed

Because rabbits hide distress instinctively, knowing the warning signs is as important as recognising happiness.

  • Hiding for extended periods: occasional hiding is normal, but a rabbit that stays hidden most of the day and avoids interaction is signalling fear, stress or pain
  • Thumping: a rabbit that stamps its back legs firmly on the ground has detected something it perceives as a threat — repeated thumping in the absence of any obvious cause can indicate chronic anxiety
  • Flat body on the ground, ears back: the freeze posture — belly flat, ears pressed back, eyes wide — means the rabbit is frightened and feels unable to escape
  • Teeth grinding (bruxism): loud, heavy tooth grinding accompanied by a hunched posture and reluctance to move is a sign of pain — distinct from the soft, happy tooth purring
  • Loss of appetite: any reduction in eating — especially refusing hay, which should make up 80–90% of a rabbit’s diet — is a veterinary emergency in rabbits, as GI stasis can develop within hours
  • Over-grooming or fur pulling: obsessive self-grooming or pulling out fur can indicate stress, boredom or a skin condition
  • Aggression: biting, scratching or boxing (sitting up on hind legs with front paws raised) in a rabbit that was previously calm often indicates pain, fear or hormonal issues — especially in unneutered rabbits
  • Screaming: a rabbit that screams is in severe pain or extreme terror and needs immediate veterinary attention

How to Keep Your Rabbit Happy

Rabbit welfare goes beyond food and water — the five key needs of rabbits are diet, environment, companionship, behaviour and health.

  • Space to run: rabbits need a minimum of 3 metres x 2 metres of usable space to run and binky — a standard hutch alone is not sufficient; daily free-roaming time in a larger area is essential
  • A companion: rabbits are highly social animals that suffer from loneliness — the RSPCA and most rabbit welfare organisations recommend keeping rabbits in pairs (neutered, same-sex or mixed-sex pairs); a single rabbit needs significantly more human interaction to compensate
  • Enrichment: cardboard boxes to explore and chew, tunnels, digging trays filled with soil or shredded paper, and toys to toss and flip keep rabbits mentally stimulated; a bored rabbit will often develop destructive or obsessive behaviours
  • Hay, hay and more hay: 80–90% of a rabbit’s diet should be fresh hay — it keeps their gut moving and their teeth worn down; a rabbit that stops eating hay is a rabbit in trouble
  • Hiding spots: counter-intuitively, providing hiding places makes rabbits feel safer and more confident to explore — a rabbit with no retreat feels permanently exposed and stressed
  • Routine: rabbits are creatures of habit and are more relaxed in predictable environments; consistent feeding times, a stable household and minimal sudden loud noises support their wellbeing

Further reading on rabbit care and behaviour:

FAQ

My rabbit never binkies. Does that mean it is unhappy?

Not necessarily. Some rabbits are naturally more reserved than others and express happiness in quieter ways — flopping, relaxed posture, grooming you or simply sitting calmly near you. If your rabbit is eating well, exploring confidently and showing no signs of stress or pain, they are likely content even without spectacular binkies.

My rabbit thumped and then ran away from me. Did I do something wrong?

Thumping is a warning signal — the rabbit detected something alarming, whether a sound, smell or sudden movement. Give your rabbit space and time to settle. Avoid pursuing them when they thump or run; let them come to you when they feel safe. If thumping happens frequently without obvious cause, consider whether the environment has new stressors — a new pet, noise, a change in routine.

How do I know if my rabbit is in pain?

The most reliable signs of pain in rabbits are: a hunched posture with the belly tucked up, reluctance to move, loud tooth grinding (bruxism), loss of appetite — especially refusing hay — and sitting in an unusual position. Any of these, particularly appetite loss, require a same-day vet visit. Rabbits can go into GI stasis — a life-threatening gut slowdown — within hours of stopping eating.

Does my rabbit need a companion?

In most cases, yes. Rabbits are highly social animals that can suffer from loneliness and boredom when kept alone. Single rabbits can thrive with very high levels of human interaction, but most rabbit welfare organisations recommend keeping them in pairs where possible. Bonded rabbit pairs groom each other, sleep together and display visibly calmer, more confident behaviour than solo rabbits.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your rabbit seems unwell or has stopped eating, contact your vet immediately — rabbit health can deteriorate quickly.

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Oct 20, 2026
How to Introduce a New Cat to Your Home: A Step-by-Step Plan

Quick answer: Keep the new cat in a separate “base” room for at least several days, swap scents before any face-to-face meeting, then introduce them gradually with supervised, short visits. Most cats need one to four weeks to settle, and some need longer.

Before the cat comes home

Book a vet check for the newcomer and ask about testing for feline leukemia (FeLV) and FIV. Prepare a quiet room with a litter box, food, water, a hiding spot and a scratching post. Resident cats should have their own resources too. A common guideline is one litter box per cat plus one extra.

Step 1: Start with a separate room

Place the new cat in the base room and let everyone rest. Resident cats will smell the newcomer under the door, and that is a good first step. Keep routines the same for your resident cat so they do not link the stress to the new arrival.

Step 2: Swap scents

Cats rely on smell to recognize friends and strangers. Rub a clean sock on one cat’s cheeks and leave it near the other cat’s food bowl. Swap bedding or let each cat explore the other’s room while the other is elsewhere.

Step 3: Feed on opposite sides of a door

Place food bowls a few meters from the closed door and move them closer day by day. When both cats eat calmly, you are ready for a visual introduction.

Step 4: First sight, with a barrier

Use a baby gate, a cracked door or a mesh screen so the cats can see each other. Keep the first sessions short, a few minutes, and end on a positive note with treats or play. Watch body language: relaxed ears, slow blinking and curiosity are good. Hissing is normal at first, but growling, flattened ears or fixed staring mean you should add distance.

Step 5: Supervised time together

Open the barrier while you are present. Use interactive toys and keep a towel or a piece of cardboard nearby to separate the cats gently if tension rises. Never use your hands to break up a fight.

Signs it is going well

  • Relaxed posture and normal eating
  • Sniffing without growling
  • Occasional play or grooming each other
  • Both cats using the litter boxes normally

When to slow down

Go back a step if you see repeated fights, blocking of food or litter areas, hiding for days, or changes in appetite. If problems last, ask your vet to rule out medical causes and consider a certified cat behavior consultant.

FAQ

How long does it take cats to get used to each other?

Many cats tolerate each other within one to four weeks, but full friendship can take a few months.

Should I let my cats fight it out?

No. Fighting can create lasting fear and hostility. Separate them calmly and restart more slowly.

Is it easier to introduce a kitten or an adult cat?

Kittens often have an easier time, but a very energetic kitten can overwhelm an older cat. Match energy levels when you can.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

Related articles

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Oct 2, 2026
Why Do Dogs Spin Before Lying Down? The Evolutionary Reason

Watch any dog settle down for a nap and there is a good chance you will see it: two, three, maybe five full circles before they finally flop down — on the exact same bed they have slept on for years. According to board-certified veterinary behaviourist Dr Wailani Sung of UC Davis, this pre-sleep ritual is almost certainly an instinctive behaviour inherited from wild ancestors — and the fact that dogs still do it on a plush memory foam bed proves just how deeply wired it is.

Why Dogs Spin Before Lying Down

There is no single definitive answer — but several well-supported theories, all rooted in the same evolutionary story.

Flattening the ground

Before dogs lived in houses with beds, their wild ancestors slept outdoors on whatever ground was available — long grass, leaf litter, snow, rocky soil. Spinning in circles before lying down flattened the surface, cleared away stones and sticks, and created a more comfortable sleeping spot. The behaviour is so deeply ingrained that dogs continue doing it on carpet, cushions and memory foam — surfaces that need no flattening whatsoever. Dr Elizabeth Stelow, chief of behaviour service at UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine, notes that dogs circle even on beds they vacated just hours before, confirming this is instinct rather than learned habit.

Checking for danger

A dog lying down is a vulnerable dog. Before settling, wild canines would use the circling motion to scan the surrounding area one final time — a 360-degree visual sweep for predators. The spin also positioned the dog so that their nose faced into the wind, maximising their ability to detect incoming scent. Veterinarian Lynn Buzhardt describes it as a form of self-preservation: the circling gives the dog one last opportunity to ensure the area is safe before committing to the vulnerable position of sleep. Domesticated dogs face no predators in your living room, but the instinct remains fully intact.

Temperature regulation

Circling helps dogs position themselves optimally for warmth or cooling before sleep. In cold conditions, the spinning motion helps the dog curl into the tightest possible ball, minimising the surface area exposed to the cold. In warm conditions, dogs in the wild would scratch and dig to expose cooler earth beneath the surface before lying on it. The pawing and scratching that often accompanies the spinning is a remnant of this digging behaviour — your dog is trying to cool the ground they are about to lie on, even if it is already air-conditioned.

Driving away insects and pests

Stamping and spinning also had a practical pest-deterrent function for wild dogs. The motion disturbed any insects, spiders or small creatures hidden in the grass or undergrowth, prompting them to flee before the dog settled. This is likely a secondary rather than primary driver of the behaviour today, but it helps explain why dogs often sniff their sleeping spot intensely both during and after the circling ritual.

What the Research Actually Shows

One study tested the circling theory directly — and the results strongly support the nest-making explanation.

Researchers placed dogs on two different surfaces before sleep: a smooth, uniform carpet and a thick, uneven shag rug. Dogs were nearly three times more likely to spin before lying down on the shag rug than on the smooth carpet — and several dogs on the shag rug also pawed and scratched, mimicking the digging behaviour of wild dogs preparing a sleep site. None of the dogs on the smooth carpet did the same. This strongly suggests that circling is a context-sensitive nest-making behaviour triggered by the perceived unevenness of the surface, rather than a fixed ritual performed regardless of conditions.

The number of circles a dog makes before lying down varies considerably between individuals — some spin once, others make five or six full rotations. There is no universal set number, and dogs do not always spin the same direction. Neither the number of spins nor the direction appears to carry any consistent meaning.

When Circling Is a Warning Sign

Pre-sleep spinning is completely normal. Circling at other times, or a sudden change in the behaviour, can sometimes signal a health problem.

  • Difficulty lying down after circling: a dog that circles repeatedly but cannot settle, or that lies down and immediately gets up again, may be in pain — arthritis, joint inflammation or abdominal discomfort are common causes, especially in older dogs
  • Circling in one direction only: compulsive circling that always goes the same direction, particularly if combined with disorientation, head tilt or stumbling, can indicate a neurological problem such as vestibular disease, a brain tumour or a stroke
  • Sudden increase in circling: if a dog that rarely spun before lying down starts doing it frequently and urgently, pain or discomfort is the most likely cause — this is worth a vet visit
  • Circling during waking hours: spinning during the day, unrelated to lying down, can be a sign of anxiety, obsessive-compulsive disorder or canine cognitive dysfunction (dementia) in older dogs
  • Puppies circling excessively: very young puppies that circle obsessively without settling may have a neurological issue and should be seen by a vet promptly

Further reading on canine behaviour:

FAQ

Why does my dog always spin the same number of times?

There is no fixed number — dogs spin different amounts depending on the surface, their comfort level and individual habit. Some dogs are consistent spinners, others barely circle at all. Neither pattern is more normal than the other.

My dog scratches their bed before lying down. Is that the same thing?

Yes — scratching and pawing at the sleeping surface is part of the same nest-making behaviour. In the wild, this would expose cooler ground in warm weather or pack down material for warmth in the cold. On a dog bed, it achieves little practically, but the instinct remains. Some dogs scratch quite vigorously before settling, especially on soft or uneven surfaces.

My dog never spins before lying down. Is that normal?

Completely normal. Not all dogs retain the behaviour equally — some never circle at all, while others do it every single time. As long as your dog lies down and gets up comfortably without signs of pain or stiffness, the absence of spinning is not a concern.

Could the spinning mean my dog is uncomfortable?

If the spinning is the same pre-sleep ritual your dog has always done, almost certainly not. If they have started spinning more than usual, are struggling to find a comfortable position, seem restless or are slow to get up afterward, those are signs worth discussing with your vet — particularly in older dogs where joint pain is common.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

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Sep 13, 2026
What’s Your Dog’s Personality Type? Take the Quiz

Every dog has a personality — and while every individual is unique, research in animal behaviour consistently identifies distinct temperament patterns in dogs. A 2019 study published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences found that dog personality traits are more stable and consistent than previously thought, and are only partially explained by breed. Answer the 8 questions below, add up your score and find out which of the four personality types best describes your dog.

The Quiz: 8 Questions

For each question, pick the answer that best describes your dog’s typical behaviour — not their best day or worst day. Note the letter (A, B, C or D) for each answer. At the end, count how many of each letter you have.

1. You come home after a few hours away. What does your dog do?

  • A. Full meltdown — spinning, whining, jumping, licking your face for several minutes
  • B. Excited sprint to the door, grabs a toy and immediately wants to play
  • C. Lifts its head, wags once or twice, then goes back to sleep
  • D. Comes to greet you, sniffs you thoroughly, then watches you from a comfortable distance

2. You open the back door to let your dog into the garden. What happens?

  • A. Goes out but keeps glancing back at the door to check you are still there
  • B. Bolts out immediately, nose to the ground, exploring every corner at full speed
  • C. Wanders out slowly, finds a sunny spot and lies down
  • D. Steps out cautiously, surveys the area carefully before moving further

3. You bring out a new toy your dog has never seen before. What is their reaction?

  • A. Only interested if you are playing with it too — mostly wants the interaction, not the toy
  • B. Immediately grabs it, shakes it, throws it, wants you to chase or throw it back
  • C. Sniffs it once, decides it is not food and walks away
  • D. Circles it slowly, sniffs it from multiple angles, may pick it up and carry it off to examine privately

4. You are sitting on the sofa. Where is your dog?

  1. A. On top of you, or as physically close as possible — ideally with some part of them touching you
  2. B. Probably nudging you with a toy or pacing because it wants to do something
  3. C. Somewhere comfortable nearby, contentedly asleep
  4. D. Watching you from across the room with alert, curious eyes

5. A stranger approaches you on a walk and reaches out to pet your dog. How does your dog react?

  • Looks to you first for reassurance, then accepts the petting nervously
  • Jumps up immediately, tail going, already their new best friend
  • Accepts the petting with polite indifference, then moves on
  • Stays back and assesses the stranger for a moment before deciding whether to approach

6. You skip your dog’s usual walk time by an hour. What do they do?

  • A. Follows you anxiously around the house, looking worried and unsettled
  • B. Brings you the lead, stares at you, may whine or bark to remind you
  • C. Does not appear to notice or care, still happily asleep somewhere
  • D. Sits near the door, watches the clock situation carefully, waits

7. You are eating dinner. Your dog is nearby. What are they doing?

  • Pressed against your leg or sitting on your feet, looking up with maximum sadness
  • Circling the table with energy, trying different angles to get a piece
  • Lying somewhere comfortable, mildly interested but not bothered enough to move
  • Watching from a precise distance with intense, calculating focus — still and patient

8. You set up a basic puzzle feeder with food hidden inside. What does your dog do?

  • A. Looks at the puzzle, looks at you, waits for you to help — does not really want to do it alone
  • B. Attacks it immediately with enthusiasm — may tip it over, paw at it, bite it
  • C. Sniffs it, gets the easy pieces and abandons the rest — not worth the effort
  • D. Studies it methodically, tries different approaches, systematically solves it

How to Score Your Results

Count how many times you answered each letter. The letter you chose most often is your dog’s dominant personality type. If you have a tie between two letters, your dog is a blend of both types — read both profiles below.

Mostly… Your dog’s personality type
A 🐾 Loyal Shadow
B 🎾 Adventurer
C 🛋️ Couch King (or Queen)
D 🧠 The Thinker

4 Personality Types

🐾 A — Loyal Shadow

In a sentence: This dog’s whole world is you — and they want you to know it at all times.

What they are like: The Loyal Shadow needs proximity, reassurance and contact. They follow you from room to room, sleep as close to you as possible and feel genuinely unsettled when routines change or you are out of sight. They are extraordinarily attuned to your emotions — if you are anxious, they are anxious; if you are calm, they settle. They are not anxious dogs by nature, but they are deeply owner-oriented.

What they need: Consistency, predictability and plenty of physical affection. They thrive when they know the schedule and are included in daily activities. Puzzle feeders and training sessions are more satisfying for them when done with you than alone. If left alone frequently for long periods, Loyal Shadows are more prone to developing separation anxiety than other types.

Breeds often in this group: Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Vizslas, Border Collies.

🎾 B — Adventurer

In a sentence: High energy, high curiosity — always the first into whatever is new.

What they are like: The Adventurer approaches the world with enthusiasm and a short attention span. They want to run, explore, chase and interact. They make friends instantly, greet strangers like old friends and get bored quickly when not stimulated. They are not difficult dogs — they are just built for doing, not sitting. An Adventurer with nothing to do will find something to do, and you may not like the options they choose.

What they need: Daily vigorous exercise, off-lead time when safe, regular introduction of new toys and challenges, and training that uses their energy rather than fighting it. They excel at agility, fetch, scent games and anything that combines physical activity with a task. A tired Adventurer is a very good dog.

Breeds often in this group: Border Collies, Springer Spaniels, Siberian Huskies, Jack Russell Terriers, Belgian Malinois, Boxers.

🛋️ C — Couch King (or Queen)

In a sentence: Content, easy-going and genuinely at peace with a life of comfortable inactivity.

What they are like: The Couch King is the easiest dog to live with. They are calm, adaptable and genuinely unbothered by most things. They greet new people and situations with polite indifference rather than excitement or anxiety. They enjoy walks and play but do not require high levels of activity to be happy. They are not aloof — they are simply mellow. They tend to be more stoic about discomfort, which means it is important to watch for subtle signs of illness or pain, since they will not make a fuss.

What they need: Regular moderate exercise, mental stimulation a few times a week and a comfortable place to sleep. They adapt well to apartment living and quieter households. Because they are unlikely to demand attention, they benefit from owners who check in proactively rather than waiting for the dog to signal a need.

Breeds often in this group: Basset Hounds, Bulldogs, Greyhounds (retired racers are famously lazy), Chow Chows, Shih Tzus, Saint Bernards.

🧠 D — The Thinker

Observant, methodical and always one step ahead of you — or trying to be.

The Thinker is the dog that solves the puzzle feeder, figures out how to open the baby gate and watches your routine carefully enough to know what comes next. They are not particularly clingy or particularly wild — they are strategic. They need to understand why they are being asked to do something before they enthusiastically comply. They are often slower to warm up to strangers than Adventurers, not because they are fearful but because they prefer to assess before engaging. Once they trust you, they are intensely loyal and responsive.

Mental challenge above everything else. Training is essential — not just for obedience but because learning is the activity that satisfies them most. Puzzle feeders, scent work, trick training and structured tasks are all ideal. A Thinker left without mental stimulation becomes creative in ways that frequently involve furniture. They respond best to consistent, calm and clear communication.

German Shepherds, Border Collies (can be A or D), Poodles, Australian Shepherds, Dobermanns, Belgian Shepherds.

What to Do With Your Dog’s Type

Personality type is not destiny — but it is a useful framework for understanding what your dog actually needs.

Research published in the journal Science found that while breed accounts for some personality traits — herding dogs tend to score higher on trainability, for example — individual variation within breeds is enormous. Two Border Collies from the same litter can have completely different personalities. This means your individual dog’s observed behaviour tells you more about what they need than any breed guide alone. A few practical notes:

  • No type is better or worse: each has its own strengths and challenges; a Couch King is not a “bad” dog and a Thinker is not a “difficult” one — they are just different
  • Personality can shift with age: most dogs become calmer as they age, and many Adventurers gradually develop Couch King tendencies after age 5–6; Loyal Shadows tend to stay loyal throughout life
  • Environment shapes expression: a Thinker in a stimulating home with regular training may never develop problem behaviours; the same dog in an unstimulating environment may become destructive; personality type tells you the potential, not the outcome
  • Mixed results are common: a tie between A and D (Loyal Shadow / Thinker) is one of the most common combinations in working-breed dogs; a tie between B and C often appears in younger dogs who are mellowing out

Further reading on dog personality and behaviour:

FAQ

Can my dog be more than one type?

Absolutely — most dogs are a blend, and a tie between two types is very common. Read both profiles and take the elements that fit. A dog that is equally A and B is social, owner-oriented and highly energetic — a very common combination in retrievers and spaniels.

My dog’s result does not match their breed reputation. Is that normal?

Yes, and it is more common than most people expect. Breed predicts tendencies, not personality. Individual experience, socialisation, training history and genetics all shape who a dog actually is. A Greyhound that tests as an Adventurer is not unusual — neither is a Border Collie that turns out to be a Couch King.

Can a dog’s personality type change?

Gradually yes — particularly with age. A sudden change in personality, however, is worth a vet visit. Dogs that become suddenly clingy, unusually withdrawn, uncharacteristically reactive or dramatically less energetic may be responding to pain, illness or a significant stressor. Personality shifts over months are usually normal development; shifts over days or weeks are usually a signal.

This quiz is for general information and entertainment only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian or certified animal behaviourist. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

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Sep 8, 2026
Can Animals Dream?

Your dog twitches its paws, lets out a small whimper and its eyes flutter beneath closed lids. Your cat chirps softly and its tail flicks once. Are they dreaming? The scientific answer, based on decades of sleep research, is almost certainly yes — at least for mammals and birds. Researchers at MIT and other institutions have found that the sleeping brains of animals replay the neural activity of their waking experiences in ways that strongly parallel what happens in dreaming humans.

The Science: What REM Sleep Reveals

We cannot ask an animal what it dreamed about — but we can measure what its brain does during sleep, and the evidence is striking.

What REM sleep is and why it matters

Sleep in mammals is divided into two broad phases: non-REM (NREM) sleep, which is deep and restorative, and REM (rapid eye movement) sleep, during which the brain becomes highly active — almost as active as it is when awake. In humans, REM sleep is when the most vivid and memorable dreams occur. When people are woken from REM sleep, they are far more likely to report dreaming than when woken from NREM sleep. The key insight from animal research is that the brains of many animals show the same REM and NREM cycle — and during REM, the same neural patterns fire as during waking activity.

The rat maze experiment

One of the most compelling pieces of evidence came from MIT researchers Matthew Wilson and Kenway Louie, who trained rats to run through a maze while recording the precise firing patterns of neurons in the hippocampus — the brain region associated with memory and spatial navigation. When the rats later slept, the same neuron sequences fired during REM sleep, often at the same speed and in the same order as during the maze run. The match was so precise that the researchers could identify exactly where in the maze a rat was “replaying” while asleep. This is the closest science has come to directly observing an animal dream.

Which Animals Dream — and Which Probably Don’t

REM sleep is the best available marker for dreaming — and it is far more widespread across the animal kingdom than scientists once assumed.

Animal group REM sleep evidence Likely to dream?
Mammals (dogs, cats, rats, primates) Strong — well documented ✅ Very likely
Birds Strong — REM and NREM confirmed ✅ Very likely
Reptiles Present but less studied 🟡 Possibly
Jumping spiders REM-like patterns found in 2022 study 🟡 Possibly
Fish Some evidence of sleep states 🟡 Uncertain
Insects Limited — rest states observed ❓ Unknown

Mammals (dogs, cats, primates)

REM evidence: Strong — well documented

Likely to dream: ✅ Very likely

Birds

REM evidence: Strong — REM and NREM confirmed

Likely to dream: ✅ Very likely

Reptiles

REM evidence: Present but less studied

Likely to dream: 🟡 Possibly

Insects / Fish

REM evidence: Limited or uncertain

Likely to dream: ❓ Unknown

A fascinating 2022 discovery found that jumping spiders — invertebrates — show REM-like eye movement patterns during sleep, raising the possibility that dreaming evolved far earlier in animal history than previously thought. Zebra finches, studied by biologist Daniel Margoliash at the University of Chicago, appear to use REM sleep to practice their songs — their brains replay the neural sequences of singing during sleep.

Do Dogs and Cats Dream?

The evidence for dreaming in dogs and cats is strong — and what you see when your pet twitches in its sleep is almost certainly a dream in progress.

Dogs experience both NREM and REM sleep, with REM making up roughly 12% of their total sleep time. During REM, dogs show the same behavioural signs seen in humans — rapid eye movements, irregular breathing, muscle twitches and occasional vocalisations. Harvard psychologist Deirdre Barrett, who has studied animal dreaming extensively, suggests that dogs most likely dream about their daily experiences: running, playing and interacting with the people they are close to. Researchers who temporarily disabled the pons — the brain structure that paralyses muscles during REM sleep to prevent acting out dreams — found that dogs began to physically act out behaviours during sleep, reinforcing the idea that those movements correspond to dream content.

Cats show similar REM patterns, and cat owners will recognise the signs: paw twitching, tail flicking, whisker movement and occasional vocalisations during sleep. Smaller dogs tend to enter REM sleep more frequently than large breeds, and puppies and kittens — who have vastly more new experiences to process — spend more time in REM sleep than adults.

What Do Animals Dream About?

We cannot know for certain — but the evidence strongly suggests that animals dream about their own waking experiences.

The MIT rat maze research showed that animals replay specific memories during REM sleep — a function that appears to serve memory consolidation, the same role dreams are believed to play in humans. Rather than abstract or imaginary scenarios, animals most likely experience replays of recent events: a dog re-running a morning walk, a cat re-stalking a bird it watched through the window, a rat navigating a familiar path. Whether animals experience the full narrative quality of human dreams — with characters, plot and emotional resonance — remains unknown and is likely beyond what current neuroscience can resolve. Some researchers suggest that animals without the language structures humans use to construct narrative may experience something closer to vivid sensory replay than story.

Further reading on animal sleep and cognition:

FAQ

Should I wake my pet if it seems to be having a nightmare?

Generally no. The old advice “let sleeping dogs lie” has some merit here — waking a dog or cat from deep REM sleep can startle them and they may react defensively before fully orienting. If your pet seems distressed, call their name softly from a distance rather than touching them suddenly. Most episodes pass within a minute or two.

Why does my dog twitch so much while sleeping?

The muscle twitches and leg movements during sleep are the physical expression of dream activity — the pons normally suppresses full movement, but smaller muscle groups still respond. Puppies and young dogs twitch more than adults because they spend more time in REM sleep processing their many new experiences.

Do fish dream?

Fish do appear to have sleep states, and some research has identified REM-like phases in certain species. Whether this constitutes dreaming in any meaningful sense remains genuinely unknown — the evidence is much less developed than for mammals and birds.

Can animals have nightmares?

Probably yes — at least animals with rich enough emotional lives to experience fear. Dogs rescued from abusive situations, animals that have experienced trauma, and pets with anxiety are observed to have more disturbed, active sleep than calmer animals. While we cannot confirm the content, it is reasonable to infer that negative experiences can be replayed during REM sleep just as positive ones are.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

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Sep 7, 2026
Why Do Dogs Eat Poop?

One in four dogs eats poop at some point in their lives — and one in six does it regularly enough to be considered a habitual behaviour, according to a study cited by the American Kennel Club. The technical term is coprophagia, and despite being deeply unpleasant from a human perspective, it is rarely a sign of a serious problem. That said, it is worth understanding why it happens — because the cause determines how to address it, and sometimes it does signal something that needs a vet’s attention.

Normal Reasons Dogs Eat Poop

For puppies especially, coprophagia is often entirely normal — and rooted in instincts that go back millions of years.

Maternal behaviour copied in puppyhood

Mother dogs routinely lick and clean their newborn puppies, consuming their waste in the process — a behaviour that keeps the nest clean and reduces scent that might attract predators. Puppies observe and copy this, and many carry the habit into early puppyhood as a normal part of exploring their world. Dr. Haley Georges, medical director of Veterinary Emergency Group, describes early coprophagia in puppies as a learned behaviour that the vast majority outgrow naturally by adulthood without any intervention needed.

Scavenging instinct

Dogs evolved as opportunistic scavengers — their ancestors ate whatever was available, including the faeces of other animals, which often contain partially digested nutrients. This is why dogs are so drawn to cat faeces in particular: cat food is high in protein, and cat faeces retains more nutritional value than dog faeces. A dog that raids the litter box is not behaving abnormally — it is behaving exactly as its scavenging instinct dictates. The disgust is entirely human.

Curiosity and exploration

Dogs investigate the world primarily through smell and taste. Faeces contains a rich chemical profile — information about the animal that produced it, what it ate, its health status and more. For a young or curious dog, tasting faeces is partly information-gathering. This is especially common in puppies under one year old, who mouth and eat a wide range of things that adults ignore.

Medical Causes That Need a Vet

When coprophagia starts suddenly in an adult dog that has not done it before, or is accompanied by other symptoms, a medical cause should be ruled out first.

  • Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI): the pancreas fails to produce enough digestive enzymes, meaning food passes through largely undigested — the dog eats faeces in an attempt to recover nutrients it is not absorbing; EPI causes weight loss despite a large appetite, greasy stools and chronic hunger
  • Intestinal parasites: worms compete for nutrients in the gut, leaving the dog in a state of relative nutritional deficiency that drives increased food-seeking behaviour including coprophagia
  • Malabsorption disorders: any condition that reduces nutrient absorption can trigger the same response as EPI; inflammatory bowel disease and certain infections fall into this category
  • Nutritional deficiency: a poor-quality diet lacking key nutrients can cause a dog to seek supplementation through faeces; this is a reason to review the diet, not just the behaviour
  • Polyphagia: conditions that cause excessive hunger — including diabetes, Cushing’s disease and some medications like steroids — can lead dogs to eat faeces as an extension of their increased drive to consume anything available
  • Canine cognitive dysfunction: elderly dogs with dementia sometimes eat faeces as one of a cluster of disoriented behaviours; if an older dog develops coprophagia alongside other changes in behaviour or sleep, a vet assessment is warranted

Behavioural Causes

Once medical causes are ruled out, these psychological and environmental factors are the most common drivers in adult dogs.

  • Attention-seeking: dogs that have learned their owner reacts strongly to poop-eating — even with negative attention like shouting — may repeat the behaviour because any reaction is rewarding; this is particularly common in dogs that are bored or undertimulated
  • Hiding evidence of accidents: dogs that have been harshly punished for toileting indoors sometimes eat the evidence to avoid future punishment; this creates a cycle where the punishment causes the very behaviour the owner is trying to prevent
  • Confinement and isolation: dogs left alone for very long periods in small spaces sometimes eat their own faeces — partly out of boredom, partly as a stress response and partly because the environment is unstimulating enough that faeces becomes interesting
  • Anxiety: chronic anxiety produces compulsive or displaced behaviours in dogs, and coprophagia is among them; if a dog eats poop mainly in high-stress situations or when left alone, anxiety is likely involved
  • Proximity of food to toileting areas: dogs whose feeding station is very close to where they defecate may develop an associative link between the two; moving food and toilet areas further apart often helps

How to Stop the Behaviour

The approach depends entirely on the cause — which is why identifying the driver first is more important than reaching for a deterrent spray.

Cause What to do
Puppy behaviour (under 1 year) Supervise closely, clean up immediately, redirect with a toy or command — most outgrow it naturally
Medical cause suspected Vet visit first — treat the underlying condition before addressing the behaviour
Attention-seeking Remove all reaction — no eye contact, no verbal response; reward calm behaviour near poop with treats instead
Anxiety or stress Address root cause: increase exercise, reduce time alone, add enrichment; consider behaviourist referral
Punishment-related hiding Stop all punishment for accidents; use positive reinforcement for correct toileting outdoors only
Litter box raiding Move litter box to inaccessible location, use top-entry litter box, or use baby gate to block dog access

Puppy behaviour

Action: Supervise, clean up immediately, redirect — most outgrow it

Medical cause

Action: Vet visit first — treat the condition before the behaviour

Attention-seeking

Action: Zero reaction — reward calm behaviour near poop instead

Anxiety or stress

Action: Increase exercise, enrichment, reduce time alone

The single most effective practical step for any type of coprophagia is removing the opportunity — picking up faeces immediately after the dog defecates eliminates access before the dog can eat it. This breaks the habit loop while other interventions take effect.

Further reading on dog behaviour:

FAQ

Is it dangerous for my dog to eat poop?

In most cases, no — coprophagia is unpleasant but not typically dangerous for the dog. The main genuine risk is parasite transmission: a dog that eats the faeces of an infected animal can acquire intestinal worms and other parasites. Keeping deworming up to date reduces this risk. There is also a small risk of bacterial transmission to humans through subsequent licking — washing hands after contact and not allowing face licking if coprophagia is occurring are reasonable precautions.

Why does my dog eat cat poop specifically?

Cat food is typically higher in protein and fat than dog food, and cat faeces retains more of this nutritional value after digestion. To a dog’s scavenging instinct, cat faeces is a rich resource. This is one of the most common forms of coprophagia and one of the easiest to solve — simply making the litter box inaccessible to the dog removes the opportunity entirely.

Will food additives stop my dog eating poop?

Products that make faeces taste unpleasant (typically containing ingredients like monosodium glutamate, yucca or certain herbs) have inconsistent results in the research. They work for some dogs and not at all for others. They also only address the dog’s own faeces — they cannot affect the faeces of other animals the dog may encounter. Removing the opportunity is more reliable than trying to change the taste.

My puppy ate poop. Should I be worried?

Probably not — coprophagia is common in puppies and the majority stop the behaviour naturally as they mature. Keep their parasite prevention up to date, pick up faeces promptly and redirect the puppy with a command or toy when you catch them in the act. If the behaviour is very frequent, your puppy seems unwell, or it continues well into adulthood, mention it to your vet.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell or if coprophagia is a new behaviour in an adult dog, contact your vet.

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Aug 26, 2026
How Long Do Guinea Pigs Live?

Guinea pigs live significantly longer than most people expect — and longer than many other popular small pets. According to PetMD’s veterinary team, most domestic guinea pigs live between 5 and 7 years, with some individuals reaching 8 or even beyond with optimal care. This is roughly twice the lifespan of a hamster — which means adopting a guinea pig is a considerably longer commitment than many first-time owners realise. It also means that the quality of care has a real, measurable impact on how many years a guinea pig lives.

Average Lifespan and What Affects It

5 to 7 years is the standard range, but the gap between the lower and upper end is almost entirely determined by care quality.

Lifespan at a glance

Life stage Age What to expect
Young 0–12 months Rapid growth, highest energy, very food-motivated
Adult 1–3 years Peak health and activity; establish routine vet checkups
Middle-aged 3–5 years Considered senior at 3 years; watch for dental disease, arthritis
Senior 5+ years Reduced activity, possible chronic conditions; biannual vet visits recommended

Young (0–12 months)

Notes: Rapid growth, highest energy, very food-motivated

Adult (1–3 years)

Notes: Peak health; establish routine vet checkups

Senior (3+ years)

Notes: Watch for dental disease, arthritis; biannual vet visits

Guinea pigs are considered senior at just 3 years of age — considerably earlier than most owners expect. This means that dental disease, arthritis, ovarian cysts (in females) and other age-related conditions can begin appearing in animals that are still being thought of as young adults. Knowing this changes the monitoring approach: regular weight checks and close observation of eating behaviour become more important from year 3 onward.

Key factors that affect lifespan

  • Diet: hay should make up 80% or more of a guinea pig’s daily intake; a diet heavy in pellets or low in hay is one of the leading causes of dental disease and gut problems
  • Vitamin C intake: guinea pigs cannot synthesise vitamin C and develop scurvy without daily supplementation — this is one of the most commonly missed aspects of their care (see below)
  • Social companionship: guinea pigs kept alone show measurably higher stress levels and shorter lifespans than those kept in pairs or groups
  • Enclosure size: guinea pigs need substantial floor space — a minimum of 120cm x 60cm for two pigs; inadequate space causes chronic stress and reduces activity
  • Veterinary care: annual vet visits for young adults, biannual for seniors — many conditions are easily treated when caught early and life-limiting when caught late

The Vitamin C Factor: A Unique Nutritional Need

Guinea pigs share one nutritional quirk with humans that no other common pet has: they cannot produce their own vitamin C.

Most mammals produce vitamin C internally. Guinea pigs — like humans — lost this ability through evolution and must obtain it entirely from their diet. A guinea pig deficient in vitamin C develops scurvy: swollen, painful joints, rough fur, slow wound healing, weight loss and eventually death if untreated. Early symptoms are subtle and easily missed, which is why proactive supplementation is essential rather than treating deficiency once it appears.

The best sources of vitamin C for guinea pigs:

  • Fresh vegetables daily: bell peppers (especially red and yellow) are the richest source; also parsley, kale, broccoli, spinach in moderation and fresh herbs
  • Hay and fresh grass: timothy hay is low in vitamin C but provides the fibre essential for gut and dental health
  • Vitamin C-enriched pellets: useful as a baseline but vitamin C degrades quickly — pellets more than 90 days old may have lost most of their vitamin C content; always check the manufacturing date
  • Not water drops: liquid vitamin C added to water degrades within hours and is an unreliable supplementation method

Social Needs: Why Guinea Pigs Should Never Live Alone

Guinea pigs are highly social animals — in the wild they live in groups, and isolation causes genuine psychological distress that affects their health and lifespan.

Keeping a single guinea pig — however much human interaction it receives — does not meet its social needs. Guinea pigs communicate constantly with each other through vocalisations (including the characteristic “wheeking” which is reserved almost exclusively for communicating with humans about food), physical proximity and grooming. A lone guinea pig shows elevated cortisol levels and often develops repetitive behaviours that indicate chronic stress. Switzerland has made it illegal to keep a single guinea pig precisely because of this welfare concern.

Compatible pairings and groupings:

  • Two females (sows): the most straightforward pairing; generally compatible with a proper introduction
  • Two neutered males: can work well if introduced young or carefully; unneutered males often fight
  • A neutered male and one or more females: works well; the male should be neutered to prevent breeding
  • Groups of three or more: perfectly normal and often preferable — larger groups are usually more stable than pairs

Signs of Illness to Watch For

Guinea pigs are prey animals that instinctively hide signs of weakness. By the time symptoms are obvious, the condition may already be serious.

  • Weight loss: weigh your guinea pig weekly on a kitchen scale; a loss of more than 50g over a week without a dietary change needs a vet visit
  • Changes in eating or drinking: reduced appetite, dropping food, difficulty chewing or drooling all suggest dental problems — the most common health issue in guinea pigs
  • Laboured breathing or wheezing: respiratory infections develop quickly and can become life-threatening within days; do not wait if breathing is audible or laboured
  • Bloated or hard abdomen: gut stasis (gut slowdown) is an emergency in guinea pigs — if a guinea pig stops passing droppings, contact a vet immediately
  • Changes in droppings: softer, smaller, fewer or oddly shaped droppings indicate dietary or digestive problems
  • Lethargy or hunched posture: a guinea pig that sits hunched in a corner, reluctant to move, is unwell
  • Hair loss or skin changes: fungal infections, mites and hormonal conditions (especially in older females) are common; patches of hair loss need veterinary assessment

Further reading on guinea pig care:

FAQ

Are guinea pigs good pets for children?

They can be, but they require more care than most people expect and do not tolerate rough handling well. Guinea pigs are not naturally cuddly animals — they build trust gradually and on their own terms. They are better suited to calm, patient children who will respect the animal’s signals. Adult supervision and involvement in daily care is essential.

How much space do guinea pigs need?

Far more than most commercial cages provide. The minimum recommended floor space for two guinea pigs is 120cm x 60cm — many pet shop cages are significantly smaller. Most guinea pig welfare organisations recommend purpose-built C&C (Cubes and Coroplast) enclosures that can be built to appropriate size. Multi-story cages with ramps are not ideal as guinea pigs are not climbers and can injure themselves falling.

Do guinea pigs make noise?

Yes — and more than people expect. They wheek loudly (especially when they hear the fridge open or a bag rustle), purr when content, rumble-strut when asserting dominance, and chatter their teeth as a warning. The wheeking in particular is surprisingly loud for a small animal and is directed specifically at humans rather than other guinea pigs.

Can guinea pigs eat the same food as rabbits?

No — and this is a common mistake. Rabbit pellets and mixes do not contain the added vitamin C guinea pigs need. Always use food labelled specifically for guinea pigs. Hay is universal — timothy hay is suitable for both species — but pellets, mixes and treats must be species-appropriate.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified exotic animal veterinarian. If your guinea pig seems unwell, contact a vet promptly — guinea pigs deteriorate quickly when ill.

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Aug 23, 2026
Why Do Dogs Eat Grass? The Real Reasons — and When to Worry

Up to 70% of dogs eat grass at some point in their lives, according to research published in the Journal of Applied Animal Behaviour Science — and yet most owners still worry when they see it happen. The short answer is that grass-eating is almost always normal. The longer answer is more interesting: dogs eat grass for several different reasons, and understanding which one applies to your dog helps you decide whether to ignore it, adjust their diet or call the vet.

The Main Reasons Dogs Eat Grass

There is no single explanation — research points to several different motivations, and many dogs probably eat grass for more than one reason at different times.

They simply enjoy it

The most common and least dramatic explanation is that dogs like the taste and texture of grass — particularly fresh, young growth in spring and early summer. Veterinary behaviourist Karen Sueda conducted a large-scale study on grass-eating dogs and found that the majority showed no signs of illness before eating grass and did not vomit afterward. Many simply seem to enjoy grazing as a sensory experience. Dogs are not strict carnivores: their wild ancestors ate plant matter regularly, and domestic dogs have retained that tendency.

Fibre and digestive support

Grass is rich in fibre, which supports gut motility — the movement of food through the digestive system. Dogs on low-fibre diets may instinctively seek out grass to compensate. This is one reason why grass-eating is sometimes more frequent in dogs that eat only dry kibble with limited vegetable content. If your dog regularly grazes and otherwise seems healthy, adding more fibre to their diet — through plain cooked vegetables like carrots, green beans or pumpkin — often reduces the behaviour.

Boredom or anxiety

Dogs that lack mental stimulation or are experiencing low-level anxiety sometimes fixate on grass-eating as a self-soothing behaviour. If the grass-eating happens mainly when your dog is left alone, during thunderstorms, or in situations they find stressful, behavioural factors are likely involved. Increasing daily exercise, introducing puzzle feeders and ensuring adequate social interaction often reduce this type of grass-eating significantly.

Instinct and ancestral behaviour

Wild canines — including wolves and coyotes — consume plant material regularly, either as part of eating prey animals whole or directly from the environment. Dogs retain these foraging instincts even after thousands of years of domestication. Some dogs, particularly younger ones, explore the world with their mouths and may eat grass simply out of curiosity or habit, the same way puppies mouth objects that interest them.

Does Eating Grass Make Dogs Vomit?

The popular belief that dogs eat grass specifically to make themselves vomit is not well supported by research.

Sueda’s study found that less than 25% of dogs that ate grass vomited afterward, and fewer than 10% showed signs of illness before eating it. Vomiting after grass-eating does happen — grass blades can tickle the throat and stomach lining, triggering the reflex — but it appears to be a side effect rather than the intended outcome for most dogs. A dog that eats grass slowly and calmly is almost certainly not trying to vomit. A dog that urgently gulps large amounts of grass and then vomits may be reacting to genuine gastrointestinal discomfort, but even then, the grass is more likely a response to already feeling unwell than the cause.

When Grass-Eating Is a Sign of a Problem

Occasional grass-eating in an otherwise healthy dog is almost never a concern. These are the signs that warrant a vet visit.

  • Sudden increase in frequency: a dog that has never eaten much grass and suddenly starts doing it obsessively may be experiencing gastrointestinal discomfort or a nutritional gap
  • Grass-eating followed by repeated vomiting: vomiting once after eating grass is not unusual; vomiting multiple times, or vomiting that contains blood or foam, needs veterinary attention
  • Eating grass alongside other symptoms: lethargy, loss of appetite, diarrhoea, bloated abdomen or signs of abdominal pain alongside grass-eating suggests something more than normal grazing
  • Compulsive or frantic grass-eating: dogs that are agitated and gulp grass desperately rather than grazing calmly may be reacting to nausea or pain
  • Pica: if your dog also eats dirt, rocks, fabric or other non-food items alongside grass, this may indicate pica — a condition worth discussing with a vet

Is Grass Safe for Dogs to Eat?

Grass itself is not toxic to dogs — but the grass is not always the concern. The environment it grows in matters much more.

  • Pesticides and herbicides: grass treated with weed killer, fertiliser or pest control products can cause vomiting, diarrhoea or more serious reactions — always check whether grass your dog has access to has been treated recently
  • Parasites: grass contaminated with droppings from other dogs or wildlife can carry intestinal parasites — another reason why regular deworming matters
  • Toxic plants nearby: dogs that eat grass sometimes accidentally consume nearby plants — some common garden plants like foxglove, yew and certain lilies are toxic to dogs; know what grows in your garden
  • Large amounts: while small amounts of grass pass through the digestive system without issue, very large quantities can cause blockages in some dogs — a rare but real risk

If you want to let your dog graze safely, a patch of untreated lawn or a small indoor grass pot — wheatgrass grows easily on a windowsill — gives them access without the risks of unknown outdoor environments.

Further reading on canine behaviour and nutrition:

FAQ

Should I stop my dog from eating grass?

Not necessarily. If the grass is untreated, the grazing is calm and occasional, and your dog is otherwise healthy, there is no strong reason to intervene. If the behaviour is compulsive, increasing, or accompanied by other symptoms, a vet visit makes sense.

Does grass-eating mean my dog’s diet is missing something?

Sometimes, but not always. If your dog eats a complete and balanced diet and occasionally grazes, nutrition is probably not the driver. If the grass-eating is frequent and your dog’s food is low in fibre, adding fibre-rich vegetables to their diet is worth trying before drawing conclusions.

My dog ate grass and vomited once. Should I be worried?

Probably not. A single vomit after eating grass is common and usually resolves on its own. Monitor your dog for the next few hours — if they are eating, drinking and behaving normally, no action is needed. Repeated vomiting, blood in vomit or signs of pain are reasons to call your vet.

Can puppies eat grass?

Puppies explore everything with their mouths, including grass, and occasional grass-eating is normal. The same risks apply as with adult dogs — pesticide exposure and parasites are the main concerns. Supervise young puppies in unfamiliar outdoor spaces and redirect them if they start eating large amounts.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

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