Simple, practical guides for pet owners
Cats, exotic pets and animal curiosities

Please install and activate WooCommerce to use this feature.

🔥 Dog Food Calculator

Monthly Archives: June 2026

  1. Home / 2026  / 
  2. June
Jun 24, 2026
Kitten Care Checklist: The First 12 Weeks at Home

Quick answer: In the first 12 weeks, a kitten needs kitten-formulated food, a safe space, a litter box, a first vet visit, a vaccination schedule set by your vet, gentle socialization and a kitten-proofed home. Never give cow’s milk.

Before the kitten arrives

  • Kitten food and shallow bowls
  • A litter box with unscented litter
  • A cozy bed and a carrier
  • A scratching post and safe toys
  • A kitten-proofed room with cords and toxic plants removed

Week 1: Settling in

Give the kitten a quiet base room. Show them the litter box, food and water. Let them explore at their own pace. Schedule a vet visit within the first few days.

Weeks 2 to 4: Routine and training

  • Feed several small meals a day of kitten food
  • Reinforce litter box use by placing the kitten there after meals and naps
  • Start gentle handling of paws, ears and mouth
  • Introduce a harness or carrier gradually

Weeks 5 to 8: Socialization

The socialization window is a key period. Safely expose the kitten to people, sounds and handling. Play with interactive toys, not hands, so the kitten learns bite inhibition.

Weeks 8 to 12: Health

Vaccines usually begin at 6 to 8 weeks with boosters every 3 to 4 weeks until about 16 weeks, and rabies is usually given around 12 to 16 weeks. Your vet will set the exact schedule, along with deworming, flea prevention and microchipping. Ask about the right age to spay or neuter.

Feeding basics

Choose a complete and balanced kitten food. Kittens need more calories and protein than adults. Provide fresh water at all times, and avoid cow’s milk, which can cause an upset stomach.

Kitten-proofing checklist

  • Hide or cover electrical cords
  • Remove toxic plants such as lilies
  • Secure windows and balcony doors
  • Keep small objects, string and rubber bands out of reach
  • Check the washing machine and dryer before closing

When to call the vet

Contact your vet if your kitten has diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, sneezing with discharge, refuses food or hides for a long time.

FAQ

When can kittens go outside?

Wait until the vaccination series is complete, and consider keeping your cat indoors for safety.

How many times a day should I feed a kitten?

Typically three to four small meals a day for young kittens, then fewer as they grow.

How much do kittens sleep?

Often 16 to 20 hours a day.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

Related articles

More Details
Jun 23, 2026
Wet vs Dry Dog Food: Which Is Better for Your Dog?

Neither wet nor dry dog food is universally better — both can be complete and balanced when they meet AAFCO nutritional standards. Dry food is cheaper, more convenient and has a longer shelf life. Wet food contains more moisture, is more palatable and lower in calories per gram — making it better suited for picky eaters, senior dogs and dogs on a weight management plan. Many owners feed a combination of both, and that works well too.

The One Thing That Matters Most

Before comparing formats, check for one line on any dog food you are considering: “formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.” This statement means the food has been formulated to be complete and balanced for your dog’s life stage. A complete-and-balanced kibble is always a better choice than a gourmet wet food that is not — regardless of how appealing the ingredients list looks.

Dry Dog Food (Kibble): Pros and Cons

Dry food is the most widely fed format worldwide, primarily because of its cost, convenience and long shelf life.

Advantages of dry food

  • Cost: significantly cheaper per calorie than wet food — important for medium and large breeds that eat large amounts
  • Convenience: can be used in auto-feeders, stays fresh in the bowl for hours and has a long shelf life once opened (typically 4–6 weeks)
  • Dental benefit: the mechanical action of chewing kibble provides minor plaque reduction — wet food provides none
  • Calorie density: more calories per gram means smaller portions and less mess
  • Variety: the widest range of formulas available, including breed-specific, life-stage and prescription diets

Disadvantages of dry food

  • Low moisture: only around 10% water content — dogs on kibble alone must drink enough to compensate, which not all do reliably
  • Less palatable: picky eaters, sick dogs, senior dogs with reduced smell and dogs recovering from illness often refuse or lose interest in dry food
  • Processing: the high-heat extrusion process destroys some heat-sensitive nutrients, which are then added back as synthetic supplements

Wet Dog Food (Canned): Pros and Cons

Wet food contains 70–80% moisture and is typically more appealing to dogs — but comes at a higher cost and shorter shelf life once opened.

Advantages of wet food

  • High moisture content: 70–80% water — particularly beneficial for dogs prone to urinary tract infections, kidney disease or those who do not drink enough water
  • Palatability: stronger smell and softer texture — more appealing to picky eaters, seniors with reduced appetite and dogs recovering from illness or surgery
  • Weight management: lower calorie density per gram means a larger volume for fewer calories — dogs feel fuller while eating less
  • Easy to chew: ideal for dogs with dental disease, missing teeth, jaw problems or very young puppies still developing chewing ability
  • Higher meat content: typically contains more animal protein and fewer carbohydrates than dry food

Disadvantages of wet food

  • Cost: significantly more expensive per calorie — feeding a large breed exclusively on wet food adds up quickly
  • Short shelf life once opened: must be refrigerated and used within 2–3 days — not practical for auto-feeders
  • No dental benefit: soft texture provides no plaque-reducing effect — dogs on wet-only diets may need more frequent professional dental cleaning
  • Mess: stronger smell and softer texture are messier to serve and clean up

When to Choose Each

The right format depends on your dog’s age, health and individual preferences — not on any universal rule.

Choose dry food when:

  • Your dog is a healthy adult with good teeth and reliable water intake
  • Budget or convenience is a priority — especially with medium to large breeds
  • You use a slow feeder, puzzle feeder or timed auto-dispenser
  • Your dog has no health conditions that benefit from extra moisture

Choose wet food when:

  • Your dog has dental disease, missing teeth or a sore mouth that makes chewing hard kibble painful
  • They have urinary tract issues, kidney disease or consistently drink less water than they should
  • They are a picky eater, a senior with reduced appetite, or recovering from illness or surgery
  • They are on a weight loss plan and need to feel fuller on fewer calories
  • You have a puppy being weaned from milk to solid food

Mixing Wet and Dry Food

Topping kibble with a spoonful of wet food is a practical middle ground that many owners use — you get the cost and dental benefit of dry food plus the palatability and moisture of wet. The key is to count both toward the daily calorie total so your dog does not gain weight. Use our free dog food calculator to find your dog’s daily calorie target, then split it between the two formats.

When transitioning between formats, mix increasing amounts of the new food with decreasing amounts of the old over 7–10 days. Sudden changes are a common cause of vomiting and diarrhoea in dogs.

Wet vs Dry Dog Food: Side-by-Side Comparison

Factor Dry food (kibble) Wet food (canned)
Moisture content ~10% 70–80%
Cost per calorie ✅ Lower ❌ Higher
Shelf life (opened) ✅ 4–6 weeks ❌ 2–3 days (refrigerated)
Palatability Moderate ✅ Higher
Dental benefit ✅ Minor ❌ None
Hydration support ❌ Low ✅ High
Weight management Moderate ✅ Better (lower calorie density)
Works in auto-feeders ✅ Yes ❌ No
Best for Healthy adults, budget, convenience Seniors, picky eaters, kidney/urinary health

Dry Food (Kibble)

Moisture: ~10%

Cost: ✅ Lower per calorie

Dental benefit: ✅ Minor

Best for: Healthy adults, budget, convenience

Wet Food (Canned)

Moisture: 70–80%

Cost: ❌ Higher per calorie

Dental benefit: ❌ None

Best for: Seniors, picky eaters, kidney/urinary health

Further reading on dog food formats and standards:

FAQ

Is wet or dry food better for puppies?

Either works as long as it is labelled for puppies or “all life stages” and meets AAFCO standards. Wet food can help very young puppies transition from milk to solid food. Most owners switch to dry or a mix once the puppy has developed full chewing ability.

Does dry food really clean teeth?

It provides minor benefit from the chewing action, but it is not a substitute for tooth brushing. Therapeutic dental kibbles carrying the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal are specifically designed to reduce plaque and tartar — and are more effective than standard kibble.

Can I switch between wet and dry food regularly?

Yes — but always transition gradually over 7–10 days when making a change. Some dogs have sensitive stomachs and need a slower transition. Once your dog is accustomed to both formats, alternating between them is fine as long as total daily calories remain consistent.

How much wet food should I add if I am mixing?

There is no fixed rule — the key is to reduce the dry food portion to compensate for the calories in the wet food. A common approach is to replace 25–30% of the daily dry food calories with wet food. Use our dog food calculator to find your dog’s total daily calorie target and divide it between the two.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. Dogs with medical conditions should always follow their vet’s dietary recommendations.

More Details
Jun 12, 2026
Do Ferrets Smell?

Yes — ferrets have a natural musky smell, and nothing will remove it entirely. The Merck Veterinary Manual is straightforward on this: ferret odour comes primarily from sebaceous glands distributed across the skin, not from the anal sacs — which means that removing the anal sacs, a procedure often marketed as an odour solution, does not affect the musky smell. Understanding where the odour actually comes from is the starting point for managing it effectively — and with the right approach, the smell can be reduced to a level that most people find entirely tolerable.

Where the Smell Actually Comes From

Ferrets are mustelids — the same family as minks, otters and weasels — and musky scent is a biological characteristic of the entire family.

Sebaceous glands: the main source

The primary source of ferret odour is the sebaceous glands — oil-producing glands distributed throughout the skin. These glands continuously secrete oils that give the ferret’s fur and skin their characteristic musky smell. This is a permanent biological feature: every ferret has these glands, they are active all the time and there is no surgical or topical solution that eliminates their output. The sebaceous glands are also why bathing a ferret too frequently actually intensifies the smell — stripping the skin of oils causes the glands to produce more oil to compensate, resulting in a stronger musky scent within days of bathing.

Anal sacs: a separate system

Ferrets also have anal sacs — scent glands near the base of the tail that can release a pungent burst of scent when the ferret is frightened, similarly to a skunk but significantly less potent. These are a different system from the sebaceous glands. Many ferrets sold in the US have their anal sacs removed. The Merck Veterinary Manual states clearly that removing the anal sacs does not affect the musky odour, which is produced by the sebaceous glands. The procedure eliminates the defensive spray but leaves the everyday smell entirely unchanged.

Hormonal contribution in intact ferrets

Intact (unneutered) ferrets — particularly males in breeding season — produce significantly more sebaceous secretion than neutered animals. The Merck Veterinary Manual notes that neutering reduces the musky odour characteristic of mustelids, and this is consistently confirmed by ferret owners. An intact male ferret during breeding season has a much stronger, more persistent odour than a neutered male or a female. Neutering is the single most effective intervention for reducing ferret body odour, and has additional health benefits including reduction of adrenal disease risk.

What Makes Ferret Odour Worse

The natural smell is manageable — these factors amplify it significantly beyond the baseline.

  • Over-bathing: the single most common mistake — bathing a ferret more than once every 2–3 months strips the skin of oils and triggers increased sebaceous production, making the ferret smell worse within days; most of the smell people associate with ferrets comes from the environment, not the ferret itself
  • Dirty enclosure: the majority of the smell in a ferret home comes from the litter box, bedding and cage surfaces, not from the ferret’s body — a clean enclosure dramatically changes the overall smell of a ferret household
  • Poor diet: a diet high in carbohydrates, corn, soy or sugar produces stronger-smelling waste and contributes to more intense body odour; ferrets are obligate carnivores that thrive on high-quality protein-based diets
  • Intact reproductive status: as above — intact males in season are dramatically more pungent than neutered animals
  • Ear wax accumulation: ferrets produce reddish-brown ear wax that, if not cleaned regularly, becomes a significant source of odour distinct from the body scent
  • Health problems: certain conditions including adrenal disease, skin infections and digestive issues can produce stronger or different odours — a sudden change in smell warrants a vet visit

How to Reduce Ferret Odour

In order of effectiveness — start with the most impactful and work down.

Action Impact on odour Frequency
Neuter/spay the ferret High — significantly reduces body scent Once (permanent)
Scoop litter box Very high — most of the smell comes from here Daily
Wash bedding and hammocks High — fabric absorbs and holds scent Weekly
Clean cage surfaces Moderate to high Weekly
Clean ears Moderate — ear wax is a significant odour source Weekly
Feed high-quality protein diet Moderate — reduces waste odour Ongoing
Bathe ferret Temporary only — do not overdo Every 2–3 months maximum

Neuter/spay

Impact: High — significantly reduces body scent

Frequency: Once (permanent)

Scoop litter box

Impact: Very high — most smell comes from here

Frequency: Daily

Wash bedding

Impact: High — fabric holds scent strongly

Frequency: Weekly

Bathe ferret

Impact: Temporary only — can backfire if overdone

Frequency: Every 2–3 months maximum

Common Myths About Ferret Smell

Several widely held beliefs about ferret odour are either incorrect or counterproductive.

  • “Removing the anal glands eliminates the smell”: false — the Merck Veterinary Manual is explicit that removing the anal sacs has no effect on the musky body odour, which comes from the sebaceous glands in the skin; the anal sac removal only eliminates the defensive spray
  • “Bathing regularly keeps the smell down”: the opposite is true — frequent bathing triggers increased oil production, making the ferret smell more within days; maximum once every 2–3 months
  • “Scented sprays and deodorisers solve the problem”: these products mask one smell with another and can irritate a ferret’s sensitive respiratory system; they address none of the underlying sources and are not recommended by exotic veterinarians
  • “Female ferrets don’t smell”: all ferrets have sebaceous glands regardless of sex; females do tend to smell less intensely than intact males, and neutered ferrets of either sex smell less than intact ones, but the idea that female ferrets are odourless is a myth
  • “A smelly ferret means a sick ferret”: not necessarily — a natural, consistent musky smell is normal; a sudden change in smell, a new or different odour, or smell accompanied by other symptoms is worth a vet visit

Further reading on ferret care:

FAQ

How bad does a ferret actually smell?

With proper care — a neutered ferret, daily litter cleaning, weekly bedding washing and a high-quality diet — most people describe the smell as a mild, slightly sweet musk that is noticeable but not unpleasant. The reputation ferrets have for extreme smell typically comes from inadequately cared for animals or intact males. A well-cared-for neutered ferret in a clean environment is considerably less pungent than popular perception suggests.

Will an air purifier help with ferret smell?

Yes — a HEPA air purifier with an activated carbon filter placed near the ferret’s enclosure can meaningfully reduce ambient odour. It is an effective complement to the cleaning routine rather than a substitute for it. Activated carbon specifically absorbs musty and organic odours rather than simply circulating the air.

How often should I clean my ferret’s ears?

Weekly is the standard recommendation. Ferrets produce a reddish-brown waxy discharge that accumulates quickly and becomes a noticeable odour source if left uncleaned. Use a ferret-specific or veterinary-approved ear cleaning solution on a cotton ball — never insert anything into the ear canal. If your ferret resists ear cleaning or the discharge is dark, abundant or smells strongly, a vet check is warranted.

My ferret suddenly smells much stronger than usual. Should I be worried?

A sudden intensification of smell is worth a vet visit. Adrenal disease — one of the most common health conditions in ferrets — causes changes in hormone levels that can increase sebaceous secretion and body odour. Skin infections, ear infections and digestive conditions can also change or intensify the smell. If the change is sudden and not explained by environmental factors (heat, stress, recent bathing), see an exotic animal vet.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified exotic animal veterinarian. Ferrets have specific health needs — always see a vet experienced with ferrets rather than a standard dog-and-cat practice.

More Details
Jun 9, 2026
Why Do Cats Bring Dead Animals Home?

You open the door and find a dead bird on the mat. Your cat sits nearby, watching you with what appears to be quiet satisfaction. According to veterinarian Dr Stephanie Liff of Pure Paws Veterinary Care, this is not random and it is not morbid — it is one of the most instinctive behaviours a cat can display, rooted in millions of years of feline evolution. Whether it is an act of love, a teaching moment or simply practicality depends on which theory you find most convincing — and possibly on your individual cat.

Cats Bring Dead Animals Home

Several well-supported theories exist — and they are not mutually exclusive. Your cat may be acting on more than one of them at once.

Maternal instinct: bringing food to the family

The most prominent scientific theory, supported by urban ecologist Emmanuelle Baudry of Paris-Saclay University, is rooted in maternal behaviour. In the wild, mother cats hunt and carry food back to their kittens — first dead prey for the kittens to eat, and later injured prey for them to practise killing. This behaviour is so deeply embedded that even spayed cats with no kittens, and male cats, still display it. The humans in the household become the “family” to whom the cat is delivering food. Your home is the den — the safe place where resources are brought and shared. Seen through this lens, the dead bird on your doorstep is one of the more sincere things a cat can do for you.

Home as a safe place to eat

A second, more pragmatic theory is that cats bring prey home simply because home is where they feel safest. Eating in the open, away from their territory, leaves a cat vulnerable — both to having food stolen by other animals and to being ambushed while distracted. Bringing the catch back to the house eliminates that vulnerability. This theory helps explain why cats often drop prey at the door or in the kitchen rather than eating it outside: they are securing their meal in the safest location available before consuming it. The fact that they often do not eat it after bringing it home does not disprove this — once inside, the urgency of the instinct passes.

Teaching you to hunt

A third theory is that cats bringing prey to their humans are attempting to pass on hunting skills. Mother cats do not just feed kittens — they demonstrate. By bringing prey home, a cat may be treating its owner as an incompetent family member in need of instruction. This theory gains some support from the observation that cats sometimes bring live or barely alive animals rather than cleanly killed ones — presenting a “practice target” rather than a finished meal. Whether cats have sufficient theory of mind to genuinely intend this as teaching is debated, but the behavioural pattern mirrors what mother cats do with kittens closely enough to be worth considering.

They Sometimes Bring Live Animals

Finding a half-alive mouse in your kitchen at midnight is particularly alarming — but it fits the same framework.

Cats that bring live or injured prey home are most likely acting on the teaching instinct — delivering a practice target for the “kittens” (you) to finish. Mother cats do exactly this: they deliberately bring incapacitated but living prey so their kittens can practice the kill sequence in a controlled environment. When your cat drops a stunned bird at your feet and then watches you expectantly, they may be waiting for you to finish the job. When you react with panic instead, the cat is genuinely puzzled by your apparent incompetence. Live prey is also sometimes brought home simply because the cat was distracted or interrupted during the kill and completed the journey home before finishing.

Not All Cats Do It

Hunting frequency and prey-sharing behaviour vary significantly between individual cats — and research has started to identify why.

A 2023 study published in Ecology and Evolution found that more dominant, aggressive and active cats brought home significantly more dead animals than timid, friendly cats. Cats with more outdoor access and territory to roam, particularly in rural areas, hunt and bring home prey more frequently than urban cats with limited outdoor time. Kittens that were taught to hunt by their mothers are more consistent hunters than those raised without maternal hunting instruction. Indoor-only cats hunt toys with the same instinctive drive but have no opportunity to bring home real prey. The absence of the behaviour does not mean a cat lacks hunting instincts — it usually means they simply have fewer opportunities or are temperamentally less inclined to demonstrate the behaviour toward humans.

How to Reduce the Behaviour

You cannot remove the hunting instinct — but you can significantly reduce how often it produces results.

  • Bell collar: a collar with a bell reduces hunting success by warning prey of the cat’s approach — studies suggest it reduces bird kills by 41% and mammal kills by 34%, though determined hunters adapt over time
  • Brightly coloured collar cover: a brightly coloured fabric “bib” or cover around the collar makes cats more visible to birds during the approach stalk — some studies report higher effectiveness than bells alone
  • Timed outdoor access: limiting outdoor time to midday hours, when birds and small mammals are least active, substantially reduces hunting opportunities; dawn and dusk are peak hunting times
  • Increase play: interactive play with wand toys, feather lures and puzzle feeders gives the predatory drive a domestic outlet and reduces the urgency of hunting outdoors
  • Microchip cat flap: a timed or microchip-activated cat flap that locks at night eliminates the most productive hunting hours without fully restricting outdoor access

Further reading on cats and wildlife:

FAQ

Should I punish my cat for bringing home dead animals?

No. The behaviour is entirely instinctive and your cat has no capacity to connect a delayed punishment with the earlier action. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches them only that you are unpredictable — it does not reduce hunting. Reducing opportunity and redirecting the drive through play are the only reliably effective approaches.

Is it a sign my cat loves me?

In a functional sense, yes — the behaviour is directed at family members, not strangers. A cat that brings prey to you has categorised you as part of their social group. Whether this constitutes “love” in an emotionally rich sense is a matter of interpretation, but it is certainly a social gesture directed specifically at you.

Are there health risks from my cat bringing home prey?

Yes, some. Dead animals can carry parasites (including fleas and ticks), bacterial infections and occasionally diseases like toxoplasmosis. Cats that regularly hunt should be kept up to date with deworming and flea prevention. Handle any prey your cat brings in with gloves and dispose of it carefully. The risk to humans is low but not zero, particularly for pregnant women regarding toxoplasmosis.

My indoor cat has never been outside. Why does it hunt toys so aggressively?

Because the hunting drive is hardwired, not learned. An indoor cat has never seen a mouse but will stalk, pounce on and “kill” a toy mouse with exactly the same sequence of behaviours a wild cat uses on real prey. The instinct does not require experience to activate — it simply redirects toward whatever is available.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

More Details
Jun 2, 2026
Do Cats Miss You When You Leave?

The popular image of the cat as a solitary, indifferent creature that barely notices when you leave is not quite accurate. A 2019 study published in Current Biology found that cats form attachment bonds with their owners in a pattern strikingly similar to the attachment styles seen in dogs and human infants — and that most cats use their owner as a secure base, showing measurable stress when separated and relief when reunited. The question is not really whether cats miss you. It is how much — and how subtly they show it.

What the Research Actually Shows

Cats have a reputation for independence — and it is partly deserved. But independence is not the same as indifference.

The 2019 attachment study

Researchers at Oregon State University conducted the first large-scale study of cat attachment styles using the Ainsworth Strange Situation Test — a classic assessment developed to measure human infant attachment that has since been validated for dogs. Cats were placed in an unfamiliar room with their owner for two minutes, then left alone for two minutes, then reunited with their owner. The results showed that 65% of cats displayed a secure attachment style — using their owner as a safe base from which to explore, showing mild stress during separation and greeting the owner calmly but warmly on return. Only about 35% displayed insecure attachment styles. This mirrors the proportions found in both human infants and dogs, and directly contradicts the assumption that cats do not form meaningful bonds with their owners.

Cats behave differently after longer absences

A separate study found that cats left alone for several hours purred significantly more on their owner’s return than cats separated for only 30 minutes — a subtle but measurable difference that suggests cats do register the duration of your absence, even if they do not express it dramatically. Unlike dogs, whose greeting intensity scales fairly predictably with absence duration, cats often show their response in quieter ways: more purring, more rubbing, more proximity-seeking in the hours after reunion rather than a spectacular greeting at the door.

Signs Your Cat Missed You

Cats communicate subtly — knowing what to look for is the key to understanding what your cat is actually expressing.

  • Following you from room to room: a cat that shadows you closely after you return home is re-establishing proximity — a behaviour that reflects genuine attachment
  • Head butting and cheek rubbing: cats have scent glands on their cheeks and forehead and rub them against people they feel close to as a bonding and marking behaviour; an increase in this after your return is a clear affection signal
  • Slow blinking from across the room: the slow blink is a feline signal of trust and comfort — a cat that slow-blinks at you from a distance when you return home is communicating warmth on their own terms
  • Increased vocalisation: some cats that rarely vocalise become more talkative after a period of separation — meowing, chirping or trilling at you in what appears to be a catch-up conversation
  • Kneading: an increase in kneading behaviour — particularly on you or your belongings — after a return is a comfort and bonding behaviour associated with feeling safe
  • Sleeping near your belongings: during your absence, cats often rest on or near items that carry your scent — your worn clothing, your pillow — as a form of comfort
  • Increased appetite at reunion: some cats that reduce eating slightly during a long absence return to normal eating as soon as their owner is back — the stress of the absence having suppressed appetite

Missing You vs Separation Anxiety

Most cats handle short absences comfortably. Some cats develop a clinical anxiety response that requires attention.

Missing you (normal) Separation anxiety (clinical)
While you’re away Rests, explores, sleeps normally Vocalises excessively, destructs, stops eating
On your return Warm but calm greeting, settles quickly Frantic, clingy, very slow to settle
Litter box use Normal May urinate outside the box from stress
Grooming Normal Over-grooming, hair loss from stress
Action needed None — healthy attachment Vet or behaviourist consultation

Missing you (normal)

While away: Rests and sleeps normally

On return: Warm, calm greeting, settles quickly

Action: None — healthy attachment

Separation anxiety (clinical)

While away: Vocalises, destructs, stops eating

On return: Frantic, very slow to settle

Action: Vet or behaviourist consultation

How to Help Your Cat When You’re Away

Cats are more routine-dependent than most owners realise — predictability is the foundation of feline comfort.

  • Keep their routine consistent: feeding, play and interaction at the same times each day reduces anticipatory anxiety — cats that know when to expect you are far calmer than those in unpredictable environments
  • Leave your scent: a worn piece of clothing left where your cat likes to rest provides genuine olfactory comfort — cats’ sense of smell is central to their sense of security
  • Enrich the environment: window perches, bird feeders outside the window, puzzle feeders and rotating toys give cats something engaging to do when alone — environmental enrichment significantly reduces stress-related behaviours
  • Keep them at home: cats are strongly territorial and feel most secure in their own space — cattery boarding disrupts both their routine and their territory simultaneously; a cat sitter who visits daily in the cat’s own home is far less stressful for most cats
  • Consider a second cat: for cats that show signs of loneliness, a compatible feline companion can make a substantial difference — though introductions must be done gradually and carefully

Further reading on the cat-owner bond:

FAQ

Do cats miss you more if you are gone longer?

Research suggests yes — cats that are separated for longer show more post-reunion bonding behaviour. However, cats appear to reach a threshold rather than continuing to escalate — the response to a two-week absence is not dramatically more intense than the response to a two-day absence for most securely attached cats.

My cat ignores me when I come home. Does that mean it did not miss me?

Not necessarily. Cats with a secure attachment style often greet their owners briefly and then continue with what they were doing — this is a sign of security, not indifference. Watch for the slower signals in the hours after your return: proximity-seeking, purring, rubbing and increased interaction are all meaningful even without a dramatic door greeting.

Should I get a second cat so mine is not lonely?

It depends entirely on the individual cat. Some cats are genuinely happier with a companion; others are territorial and stressed by a housemate. Age, history, temperament and the introduction process all matter significantly. A cat that shows signs of loneliness — excessive vocalisation, destructive behaviour, appetite changes — is a good candidate for a companion, introduced very gradually over several weeks.

Do cats remember their owners after a long time apart?

Yes — cats have strong scent-based memory and can recognise people they have not seen for years. Reunions after long separations are often initially cautious rather than immediately warm, as the cat re-establishes context, but most securely bonded cats reconnect fully within days.

This guide is for general information only and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified veterinarian. If your pet seems unwell, contact your vet.

More Details